Kulzira and a Male Family Member

Kulzira was our cook. She understood our need for a balanced diet that is contrary to the Mongolian belief: “Meat is for men and grass for animals.” Several generations of families customarily live together in a nomadic camp known as Khot Ail (“group of yurts”). The camp, generally consisting of two to seven households, serves as a way of pooling labor for herding and hunting, and has numerous social and ritual functions.

Bolatbek - Eagle Hunter

For centuries Bürkitshi (eagle hunters) have been hunting with their eagles during the frigid winter months for subsistence and fur (foxes, wolves, and hares). Eaglets are captured from their nests high in rocky crevices. Only female birds are selected, as they ultimately grow to be larger than males, giving them an edge as hunters. The bond between hunter and bird is deep; she answers only to the hunter’s voice.

Wedding Anniversary

Marriages were traditionally arranged by parents with a bridal dowry (usually consisting of animals) negotiated based upon the social status of the families. In the late 20th century, the norm became for children to choose their own marriage partners with less parental involvement. During our stay, this eagle hunter family celebrated their 15th wedding anniversary, wearing their original wedding clothes.

Summer Camp

The Ger (also known as üy in Kazakh) is part of the Mongolian national identity. Even today a large share of Mongolia’s population lives in Gers, including in the capital, Ulaanbaatar. Ger means home. It is the place where people cook, store food, sleep, and share stories with neighbors and visitors. A basic wood stove, fed with cow paddies, keeps the inside warm – barely enough during the cold nights.

The Hunt at Altai Soum

Western Mongolia’s Altai region is one of the most remote spots on the planet. Few roads traverse this massive area, and the high icy peaks of the Altai Range bordering Mongolia, Kazakhstan, China, and Russia form an impenetrable wall that keeps all modern encroachments at bay. Traveling through this region at minus 10F in early November made me wonder how the hunters survive the harsh winter.

Aimoldir - Eagle Huntress - 7 years old

Her charismatic looks and obvious bond with her falcon make her a favorite for photographers. I overnighted at her home and photographed her at 1AM. After we were done, she asked me to show her all the images on my computer. To my surprise, her energy kept her up until 4AM. My question was: “Are you going to be tired at school tomorrow?” Her answer: “We do get an excuse to skip class when we meet foreigners.

Eagle Hunters in Blizzard

During the long winters, eagle hunters leave their homes and head into the mountains on horseback with their eagles. Almost all the hunting takes place in winter. Fox, hare, and wolf tracks can easily be seen in the snow and when the animals are found, they have nowhere to hide in the vast whiteness. Sixteen foxes are needed to make one traditional fur hat. Wolves’ fur is the most valuable fur, but if the hunt is not done properly, wolves could kill the hunter’s eagle.

Siezbek and his Brother - Eagle Hunters

Perched on top of the mountain, the two brothers waited patiently. The only noise came from the wind and the eagles’ wing motion to keep their balance. When the prey was spotted, the hunter removed the eagle’s hood, allowing the eagle to see its prey for the first time. The wait was over. The eagle lifted her wings, and with one flap swooped down like a bullet. The second eagle was launched later as the first eagle missed the prey.

Eagle Release

After 7 to 10 years, the hunter releases his eagle back into the wild. As the eagle was trained to hunt, she will survive in the wild, find a mate, and live out the rest of her days, typically up to a decade. The release is an emotional ceremony and the hunter has to make sure that the eagle doesn’t follow him home.

Khuatkhan - Eagle Hunter

Being stranded for three days in their winter home, I truly witnessed the bond that hunters have with their eagles. Khuatkhan was willing to test if his two eagles could cohabit in the same space. The answer was no, and it showed in his stoic face and the eagles menacing look. This image was taken after the “storm,” where feathers were flying all over the place and when Khuatkhan had to use all his strength to keep the eagles from ripping each other’s throat.

Winter Camp

Food is an important element of the Kazakh hospitality tradition. When guests arrive, the household sets out a special bowl containing homemade cheeses, flour pastries (baurzak), sugar cubes, and candy. As a guest, you are obliged to part take in drinking Vodka shots and mare’s milk (kimiz). I learned rapidly that pacing myself was not impolite and would keep me sound longer, as my cup kept being refilled.

Kazakh Family

For many centuries, there has been a customary gender division of labor. Men typically handled external affairs including military, administrative, and trade matters. Men were also primarily responsible for herding animals, hunting, and maintaining animal shelters. Repairing carts, tools, and weapons was also considered men’s work. Women were responsible for housework, milking animals, making dairy products, cooking, washing, sewing, and nurturing children. Roles are morphing, as the work needs to be done to survive.

Khaizim Janerke - Eagle Huntress - 16 years old

Khaizim has a strong work ethic, taking care of her parents and learning the tradition of eagle hunting. Eagle hunting is traditionally passed down among male relatives. Female hunters are rare but there are no religious or cultural prohibitions against a girl who wishes to train and fly eagles. Khaizim started riding horses at age three and got her first eagle at age 10. Her outfit is made of furs of animals she hunted herself.

Aigerim - Eagle Huntress - 11 years old

Aigerim is drawing her inspiration from Aisholpan, the first eagle huntress crowned at the Eagle festival in Ulgii in 2014. While there were many old Kazakh eagle hunters who vehemently rejected the idea of any female taking part in their ancient tradition, Aisholpan’s father, Nurgaiv, believed that a girl can do anything a boy can, if she is determined. Asker, Aigerim’s dad, is a firm believer that his daughter should not only become an eagle huntress, but also get educated.

Asker and Aigerim – Eagle Hunters - 39 and 11 years old

Aigerim and her dad, Asker, captured her eagle as a chick. Training a raptor is a complex undertaking. She has to forge an intimate relationship with her bird, who will only respond to her voice. She began on foot, learning how to balance the eagle on her arm. She then graduated to continuing the training on her horse. But she is not yet fully ready to go hunting with her dad and be one of the fewer than 100 true eagle hunters left in Western Mongolia.

Traveling Home from the Eagle Festival

“A fast horse and a soaring eagle are the wings of a nomad” is a Kazakh proverb. The Eagle Festival takes place every October in Ulgii, where close to 80 hunters gather. After two days of grueling competition where the bonds between the hunters and their eagles are tested, the title of “best eagle hunter of the year” is awarded. More than the competition, the gathering is an opportunity for hunters to share stories and compare notes on their hunting practices.

Khairat - Young Eagle Hunter

Boys used to have a clear path. Their father would train them to become eagle hunters. Nowadays, life is more challenging as the tradition of eagle hunting is disappearing. Many parents send their children to the big cities for schooling and to earn a living. The harsh life of raising cattle, hunting, and taking care of the extended family is often replaced by the loneliness of living in a city.

Eagle Hunter with his Companions

This eagle hunter traveled over 100 miles to attend the Eagle Festival, two long days of lonely travel. His family couldn’t make the journey as they had to repair their winter home. While he is a true Eagle Hunter, for a few days, he was a tourist attraction showing his eagle and being paid by the tourists for a photo or two. Soon, he had to go back home to his traditions, braving the harsh winter months and difficult work.

Inheritance

Historically, inheritance was ultimogeniture where the youngest son would typically inherit the largest share of the parent’s animals, the Ger, and the winter camp. Today, there is a greater variation in inheritance depending on personality considerations and the economic and living circumstances of different family members. This Eagle Hunter has two boys and enjoys spending quality and joyful time with them. But at some point, he will have to make a big decision about who will inherit his animals.

Tolkyn - Eagle Huntress - 9 years old

Tolkyn is a quiet reserved huntress. She tends to disappear in the crowd and loves to spend time with her eagle. Her eagle is the family eagle. Tolkyn is conflicted between studying, which is encouraged by her mom, and learning the art of eagle hunting. Her demeanor may not fit the mold of the grit and skill of the nomadic culture, but her soft spoken words reflect the soul of the Bürkitshi.